It can’t get much better than the front row seat of an air-con bus for a ~12 hour journey so we were pretty excited when we got on said bus Saturday morning. The outside of the bus is hilarious with bright pictures of looney tunes.
We stowed our big packs on the bottom of the bus but we didn’t trust that they were secure until we started moving so I hung out by the side of the bus until the coordinator guy yells, “get on, we go now!” So I followed orders and marched to the top story front of the bus where Danica was waiting happily, excited for a comfortable journey to Siem Reap.
People always talk about the chaotic driving habits over here but i find it very logical. Instead of relying on governmental brainwashing via rules & regulations [1/31/2008: I now realize and understand that it's not our government forcing driving rules and regulations, it's that we the people have given the police the power to enforce the laws we the people have created], they use their brains to guide them simply where another car is not driving. It’s awesome, if a car is passing the bus and there’s an oncoming car in that lane, the oncoming car just moves onto the shoulder and continues on, it’s great and it makes sense. I was impressed with the condition of the large highway in thailand all the way from Bangkok to Aranya Prathet (the border town).
The air-con got weaker and weaker as we went but wasn’t that big of a deal, I mean we still had the 270-degree view out the front. Plus we were the only ones in the bus with a big footrest thing in front so we were totally stretched out for about 3 hours. We’d picked up an assortment of crackers in our Bangkok wanderings the night before so that satisfied our snacky cravings. I really like the strawberry rose crackers we had but Danica says they remind her of a certain grand-progenitor so…
We arrived in Aranya Prathet in a slight sweat but nonetheless pretty dang comfortable. We stopped there to get our Cambodian visas, which cost $30 USD. The visa shop was one of several around town but the bus companies just take you to one assuming you’ll use that place, if you wanted to explore around and do it on your own you could but that would be inconvenient. The other convenience is that the visa shop is also a cafe so you can get food.
I refused the convenience though and they said we had an hour so I wandered down a nearby sidestreet in search of street vendors. On entering the sidestreet I was immediately off the main road and it was sweet. After only a few blocks I came out on a street more a part of the real town instead of the interstate road.
So I bought a couple fried things, I don’t really know what they were, but one thing was sort of a fried spring roll kinda thing with some sort of rat, dog, cat, or meat. The other thing was just potato I think, like a jojo. I then bought some water and a chilled mocha coffee thing in a can. My next food purchase was fried bananas dipped in something sugary [hot sweetened condensed milk?] and really good. The bananas are chopped into like 3 chunks, fried, and then put on a stick, then she took a rolling pin and smashed the fried chunks and finally dipped them; the first one i ate was right out of the dip and was awesome, the next ones weren’t quite as good just because they were in a plastic sack and the sugary goodness dripped off a bit. Finally I bought a Milo to try that out. Danica talks about Milo in previous Malaysia posts, it’s malted barley and cocoa to make the chocolatey flavor.
So I wandered, bought some food, and got back to the visa place after about 1/2 hour. I should have gone off for like 2 hours because it was at least that long before our visas all went through and they put us back on the bus. We thought we might be able to then just slide on through and be on our way. way, way, way wrong.
One quick funny thing I did without realizing was knock on a shrine. They have these little shrines all over in bright colors and I wanted to know what it was made of so I started knocking on it with my knuckles but luckily Danica stopped me before someone started shooting at me for disrespecting the shrine.
We drove for like 5 minutes and then they stopped. We got back out of the bus and they started handing us our big packs. Then they stickered us with different colored tape depending on whether we were going one way (that’s us, and we got green tape) or round trip. Ahhh, poor round trip people. anyway, they stickered us and we stood around for a bit and then they led us over to the border crossing.
First, you have to go through the get-out-of-Thailand visa departure line and then through the get-into-Cambodia visa arrival line. Long hot story short, it took 5 hours! 5 hours! of standing in crowded, hot lines.
It wasn’t entirely boring though because we watched the Cambodian and Thai people crossing back and forth pushing carts and carrying stuff on their heads and basically looking poor and dirty. I was in a pretty good mood however and Danica joined me (in the good mood) when a fan finally graced her presence.
After a quick and pleasant five hour line, they loaded us into tuk-tuks, which are motorcycles with a roofed trailer hitched to the back. They hauled us down the road for about 5 minutes and then dropped us off on the other side of the road where we were to catch our Cambodian bus.
Unfortunately, the only mistake we’ve made so far is here when we were convinced to exchange Thai baht for Cambodian riels beause we now realize we got ripped off. They only gave us 70% of what we should have gotten. Oh well, won’t do that again… probably for several reasons.
Remember the colored stickers? The colors were to send groups off in order. Purple went, they yelled at all us greenies to go inside instead of hanging around outside confusing everyone, then pink went, then some military guys showed up seemingly to calm us greeners, then we waited, then the guys running the store were trying to type “excuse me” into their cell phone for some reason and didn’t know how to spell it so they asked me to finish it on the phone which I screwed up so one guy had me write it on his hand (and then Danica tried to get them to write Danica on her hand in Thai but they just laughed/giggled and walked away, either becasue they misinterpreted her or had no idea what she said), and then we waited some more,
and finally Danica and I luckily overheard a couple other greenies say that the color process had just been thrown out the window and now it was be ready in front or lose out. So we casually wandered back outside up towards the front. A bus came and we bolted to be like the first ones there. We were both in tune at this point knowing it was either be a big dog or lose out so we were ready.
They started stacking, um more like piling, our packs in the front of the bus and lining up to get in. They got our packs in and we jumped on towards the front since we were promised front row seats… but we now understood that was only for Thailand and the concept of aircon and front row had just died.
When D got in, she had the window seat and I had the aisle so she asked to switch, which we did. About 30 seconds later she realized a seat fills in the aisle so there isn’t an aisle. Haha, so I ended up with a comfy window while she was in the middle. Poor poor danica and her flighty stomach she thought she might hurl but I don’t think she ended having any issues luckily. At this point we were ready to depart and get on to Siem Riep, but then we got the news — the “drive” would take 10-11 hours, with a hike in the middle, and would put us into town around 3am.